Our last 8 days since we left Barcelona have been good but the internet access has been abysmal so even if we can get on the web, uploading photos has been very difficult. (I'm never sure what's going to work so my apologies for poor picture quality.) I hope to catch up eventually but here's the short version run-down as our days slide by... First, we went to Cadaques for 3 days (just gorgeous and the kids have voted that hotel's pool a trip highlight--go figure), then Figueres (day trip to see Dali Museum), Zaragoza (so hot we couldn't see straight), north to San Sebastian (even 2 days of solid rain at this fantastic beach and delightful town couldn't dampen our enthusiasm though it did limit our sand time!), Llanes (horrible hotel, overhyped beach town overcrowded with pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela), and now in regal Leon, where we're staying at a beautiful parador hotel--this one a remarkable 12th century monastery turned hospital then prison and now luxury hotel.
The city's main attractions and museums have been closed a lot this weekend and internet service is slow so it's forcing us to relax--always for the best. While I got a great rate from the hotel, their laundry charges were appalling and we had a LOT of dirty clothes. With no laundromat in town, we had to do all our laundry in the tub and sink yesterday, which we're sure the hotel would loathe (ah well, stinky Stacklers would be worse than sneaky/gauche Stacklers). We had an excellent regional/Leon tasting dinner at the parador last night from 9 til midnight so today we're taking it a bit easier.
Leon is an interesting city. The Castilian they speak is so pure and whispery that Ed can barely understand it. And there's a feeling of sophistication here that seems a little out of place as it's a pretty sleepy town from what we can tell. But people are dressed to the nines. We saw three weddings here and every guest (literally everyone in town?) had on a full-length gown or three-piece suit. A Bentley ushered in one bride and groom, and fireworks ushered out another. I realized today how nice it was that there were far fewer motorcycles and scooters in this walkable city which makes it both safer and quieter. The down side is that at 3 p.m. today Leon was a total ghost town, and I felt a little odd walking home alone from a 2nd attempt to see the cathedral's amazing stained glass windows (so extensive that the exterior weight is supported entirely by flying buttresses, an achievement that Frommers considers it a precursor to Mies Van Der Rohe's work).
Tomorrow we drive 6 or so hours to Cuenca, another city rich in history plus "hanging houses" over a gorge. We got yet another great deal at a parador and this one has a pool so there are extremely high expectations....
We've only just begun talking about the things we miss that we'll do when we get home. Which I think is an excellent sign after nearly 7 weeks on the road. The boys especially are tired of jamon and queso and bread and tortilla espaniola and olives and even Fanta. But still they're curious and good sports.
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